Tracht’s triumphs

Nestled inside the first floor of the Renaissance Long Beach Hotel lies an American chophouse with a relaxing vibe and comfort food to make you all warm inside. Executive chef and owner Suzanne Tracht (who also leads the charge at her flagship Jar in Los Angeles) opened here in July with a nearly identical menu that centers on beef. Rib eye, filet, veal porterhouse, her signature pot roast, and a sauce list that features horseradish, bearnaise (traditional or lobster), tamarind and green peppercorn.

Take a respite from the hustle and bustle outside with one of the mixed drinks. I order a concoction called ‘Holy Water.’ It’s lemon vodka, simple syrup, lemonade and soda water in a high-ball glass. The ideal refresher on a warm night. My friend and I opt for warming fare on this chilly winter night: Coq au vin and pot roast both shine. The pot roast has a nice sear on the outside with tender, juicy meat inside. For Coq au vin, the classic French dish of braised chicken in a red-wine broth, two leg-thigh pieces sit atop a tasty sauce with cremini tops, pearl onions and applewood smoked bacon. The server sets the plate down and immediately I smell bacon. How bad can that be?

Don’t miss the chocolate pudding, which is more like a thick, creamy mousse. It is fantastic. This is chocolate at full-throttle. It’s not like some jelly-like puddings where the sugar overpowers other flavors. The chocolate hits you hard and often and that is a good thing. I’m going to e-mail the Los Angeles Times food writers to see if Ms. Tracht would share the recipes. Has anyone else been to Tracht’s? What did you have? Would love to hear your experiences.